Petra Piomba

Park at the edge of the track. It’s very important to leave the track clear.

Overhanging, the aptly-named Petra Piomba is the main crag in this region. Whilst a few easier routes exist, the most interesting routes are found from 6b upwards. Climbing is never monotonous, and is often punctuated by an unexpected tricky move. During the autumn of 2016 very difficult extensions has been bolted across the roof which tops off the crag and protects climbers from the rain. Although it is at some distance from the main roads, a visit to Petra Piomba is an essential part of a trip to Corsican crags.
Mort de brosse sector: Crunchy rock. From "Superplouf" onwards, the routes are more inviting.
Toitsector: Excellent rock and varied climbing. The difficult routes recently bolted are all exceptional: they are always very physically-demanding, those in the 7th degree are often a test of endurance, and those in the 8th degree contain a few complicated bouldering moves (routes in the 9th degree are still waiting for their first send). Should the occasion arise, don’t neglect the short routes close to "Départ assis", they will have a few surprises up their sleeve for you. The lower sector is heterogeneous as much in terms of grades as in terms of interesting routes.